Mexican-owned business brings Chinese dishes to Denison

Published in print and online for Carroll Times Herald

DENISON, IOWA: Lucio Tlatenchi may come from Mexico, but he knows how to stir-fry a tasty lo mein.

Tlatenchi, 60, first moved to Omaha, Nebraska, from California seven years ago, thinking that he would join his two sisters and their spouses in opening a Chinese restaurant, House of the Dragon.

The Omaha market, they noticed, was too saturated, so they looked for locations in smaller towns.

That led Tlatenchi to Denison, a city with about 8,300 residents yet only two Chinese restaurants. Taking note of the gap, he saw an opportunity to bring more diverse cuisines to the community. Plus, retail properties in Denison are much more affordable than those in California and Nebraska.

Advertised as the place “where you can find quick and delicious Chinese food, and the most important, our low prices,” House of the Dragon celebrated its official opening on March 27.

“I’m always thinking I’d open a restaurant, because I love Chinese food and know the ingredients,” Tlatenchi said, explaining that he has worked in Chinese restaurants for nearly a decade.

Clad in a black apron and his signature mustache, he stood in the simple space at 103 Main St., where the walls are a rich shade of red — a popular color representing good fortune in China — and a lucky cat figurine greets patrons at the counter.

Except for a few maroon tables and chairs, as well as a large House of the Dragon sign, the decor is minimal. Tlatenchi hopes to continue curating the space as he gains more customers and expands his business.

Each day, he and his family drive 90 minutes from Omaha, leaving home at 7 a.m. While renovating the building during the pandemic, including installing new wood flooring and a counter by himself, he experimented with ingredients to perfect his menu. He’s spent plenty of time making sure his dishes are delicious, with sauces that are more sweet and tangy rather than spicy.

“This is our own flavor and taste,” Tlatenchi said.

The menu boasts a variety of chicken, beef and shrimp dishes with generous portions, at prices ranging from $8.50 for a small size and up to $14.50 for a large. As Kimberly Taylor, a 17-year-old junior at Denison High School, manned the counter, she recommended trying the lo mein or the sesame chicken. Tlatenchi also likes the soft golden noodles, but his favorite menu item is the almond chicken.

Though the tastes of Mexico may feel worlds away from those of China, the two types of food hold similarities. Traditional Mexican dishes include lots of rice, spices and vegetables, much like Chinese food. Or, think about a burrito stuffed with protein and veggies, wrapped in a tortilla shell. With their deep-fried wrapper and blend of vegetables, seasonings and ground pork, egg rolls — $2 apiece at House of Dragon — aren’t too far off.

In both Mexican and Chinese culture, holidays are celebrated with feasts and specific dishes. During Lunar New Year, Asian families gather to prepare dumplings. In East and Southeast Asian countries, people devour moon cakes for good luck at the Mid-Autumn Festival — a beloved day in honor of the moon. For the Mexican holiday el Dia de los Muertos, which honors ancestors who have passed away, ofrendas, or offerings, include tamales and sugar skulls.

When the shop closes at 9 p.m., the Tlatenchis stay late into the night cleaning up before driving back to Ohama. Then, they do it all over again the next day.

“I don’t know how, but we get it done,” Tlatenchi said.